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Replacing Your Cars Water Pump

How to replace your cars water pump

Water Pump Removal:
1.
Drain the coolant from the radiator or used engines block into a clean drain pan. Some vehicles require that you remove one end of the lower radiator hose to drain the system. If the coolant is rusty, dirty or over two years old, dispose of it properly, and flush the system before replacing the pump, as contaminated coolant could cause failure of the new pump.

2.
To remove the fan and fan clutch, start with the fan shroud (if you have one) and move it inward over the fan. Remove the fan bolts, and take the fan and shroud off together. If the vehicle has a fan clutch, you might want to consider replacing it at this time. Fan clutches should always be laid face down to prevent damage and assure proper operation. Check the fan for cracks, bent blades or other defects. Don't try to repair a damaged fan, always replace it.

3.
Remove other components as needed to make the water pump accessible. These would include the belts, alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor. It is not always necessary to remove the hoses or wiring to these components most times you can just move them out of the way - simply place them out of the way. Consult your cars repair manual for specific instructions on engines where parts such as timing belts must be disturbed. Remove all heater and by-pass hoses that are connected to the water pump. At this time, remove any hose fittings that thread into the pump.

4.
Remove the water pump attaching bolts, noting their lengths and positions for correct replacement. Remove the pump from the engine.
IMPORTANT: If the pump does not come off easily, check to be sure all the mounting bolts have been removed. Do not try to force it off. After the old pump has been removed, carefully clean all the old gasket material from the mounting surface of the engine. Also wire brush the threads of the water pump mounting bolts to pre-pare for reinstallation.
If required, transfer the studs for fan attachment from the old pump to the new pump. This is most easily accomplished by using the "double nut" method.

Water Pump Installation:
1.
When mounting the new pump, be sure the new gasket matches the surfaces to be sealed. Lightly coat both sides of the gasket with gasket sealer and position it on the engine. Also, lightly coat the threads of any bolts threading into a coolant passage with a non-hardening sealer. Install the new pump and attaching bolts (hand tight) in their original positions. Give the pump shaft a quick spin to check for free operation. Tighten the pump mounting bolts, using care not to over tighten, as possible pump damage may result.

2.
Reconnect all hoses replacing those that feel brittle, mushy or are cracked. Be especially critical of bypass hoses, or others that may be difficult to replace after assembly is complete. Use new clamps and apply sealant on any corroded hose connections. Verify that hoses are positioned to clear all moving parts and that the clamps will not contact pulleys, brackets or the fan.

3.
Remount other components that were removed earlier, referring cars repair manual if needed. Reinstall the belts for each component as you go, using new ones if the old ones are cracked, glazed or frayed. To tighten the belts, put tension on them by using a soft piece of wood as a lever, prying the component outward until the belt is tight. In most cases, applying hand pressure is the best method for tightening. Whatever method you choose, be careful to avoid damage to other engine components.

4.
Check all of the hose connections for tightness, then close the radiator drain, and add your coolant in the proper mixture.

5.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks and the proper operation of all components disturbed during the process. The heater valve must be open, (heat on, temp on hot) to assure complete circulation of coolant. Run the engine without radiator cap until it reaches normal operating temperature to purge the system of air. Top off the radiator and reinstall the radiator cap. Any further coolant level checks should be done at the coolant reservoir only.

When You're Done:
1. Look over the entire system for leaks after it has reached operating temperature, with the radiator cap installed.

2. After the engine has run for at least 15 minutes, turn it off and recheck the belt tension. Retighten as necessary.

3. Check the antifreeze protection level. A 50/50 mixture will give the best protection against winter freezing and summer boil over.

4. Check the operation of the heater. If it doesn't function correctly, allow the engine to cool and recheck the coolant level.

5. Road test the vehicle to make sure the coolant remains in the specified limits. Also check the operation of the other components that may have been removed or loosened during this procedure involved (power steering, air conditioning, etc.)

6. Some cooling systems require bleeding the air out. Refer to the appropriate service manual for the location of the cooling system bleeder screw and proper bleeding procedure.
This is not a difficult job in most cases. Some vehicles may require jacking the car up to gain access to the water pump. If this is the case with your vehicle, be sure to use jack stands and block the rear wheels. Never work on a car engine supported by a jack alone.